That's all, folks. Fashion Week has come and gone, taking its spring 2020 runways with it. Over the past 30 days, Refinery29's fashion team saw tons of trends that we have already begun to add into our wardrobe, plotted out what pieces we have to buy next season once they are available, and even printed off specific pictures from the runway to add to our own personal mood boards.
But we'd be lying if we didn't admit to playing favourites. Some cities just speak to our specific aesthetics better than others. Ahead, we explain which cities best represent the women we aim to be when we get dressed in the morning, or at the very least, who we would be if money were no object. Mekita Rivas, Contributing Fashion Writer: New York Fashion Week
I still get chills thinking about this runway moment. When Prabal Gurung sent a diverse cast of models down the runway wearing pagentry-esque sashes (à la Miss America) with the question “Who gets to be American?” emblazoned on the front — man, that really hit home for me. As a first-generation American, I have long grappled with my cultural identity. I’ve struggled to understand what it means to be born in a country and claim it, and yet feel as though my ownership of my “American” identity is constantly questioned because of my last name or where my parents come from. The immigrant story is one that needs to be told no matter the time of year. But given the current sociopolitical landscape and the huge platform that NYFW provides, Gurung’s artistic statement felt more relevant — and necessary — than ever.Photo: Randy Brooke/WireImage.Eliza Huber, Market Writer: London Fashion Week
Admittedly, it’s not the fashion that made me fall in love with London. I’ve been obsessed with the city since I first visited at five years-old; the 24-hour energy, the pubs, the underground alleys full of flea market carts and food trucks — everything. But once fashion became my work, it quickly became another reason to daydream about my favourite city.
London Fashion Week is nothing like its counterparts in New York, Milan or Paris. The street style is edgy, despite the very traditional, old-world attitudes that make up the city, let alone the government. The designers are non-conformist and thoughtful, with Burberry and Stella McCartney constantly at the forefront of sustainable fashion and Simone Rocha and Charlotte Knowles never falling victim to traditional standards of what’s “pretty” and what’s not. Even the way things are set up is a solo act, with the British Fashion Council launching the Institute of Positive Fashion post-fashion week to bring attention to the industry’s detrimental impact on our environment.
While often eclipsed by the fashion weeks that follow it, London has a unique air to it that I’ll never not want to follow from the first show to the very last.Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.Channing Hargrove, Fashion News Editor: Milan Fashion Week
I live and breath New York (quite literally). I love the hustle of the fashion industry who decided that here would be where they create their version of art. But Milan has my heart. More is more in Milan. I appreciate the maximalism of it all but also the showmanship. Versace brought out Jennifer Lopez in an updated version of that damn green dress, M Missioni “remixed, re-used, and respected” its mother brand while Bottega Venetta made me want to match my bag to my shoes again. Miucci Prada's latest offering at Prada reminded me it's perfectly okay to pile on the pieces that make me happiest. But Fendi? I want a want to wear a tiny bag around my neck. Jacquemus, who? The sparkly socks with the school girl Mary Janes? Ugh. The best part about Fendi's styling is how it aimed to make women to feel natural and good in these clothes. And as someone who stands up straighter and smiles brighter in an outfit that makes me feel confident, that's the power (and the point) of fashion. Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.Jessica C. Andrews, Deputy Fashion Director: Paris Fashion Week I was first introduced to Fashion Week as a young child watching runway shows with my mom. I remember staring in awe as models made their way down the catwalk in sweeping gowns and structured suiting. Back then, runway fashion was wearable art, and it was mesmerising to me even through a small TV screen. Fashion has totally lost that sense of wonder and innovation. In an uncertain retail climate, designers seem more focused on commerce and social media fame than crafting art that makes a lasting impression. Paris is the only destination during the four-week marathon that truly embodies the Fashion Week I loved as a child. Though I didn't attend this season, I was still blown away by the showmanship at fashion houses like Issey Miyake and Rick Owens, the sharp suiting and cut-out gowns at Altuzarra, the Marie Antoinette-inspired dresses at Issey Miyake, the larger-than-life ball gowns at Balenciaga. In Paris, Fashion Week isn't merely a business operation, it's about creating a fantasy. And that's why I fell in love with it in the first place.Photo: Peter White/Getty Images.
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What would you do with £4000 and a week off work? Head on a luxury spa break? Go on a surfing holiday? According to a new documentary, the answer to this question for some British men is: go to a residential training camp that promises to teach you how to convince women to have sex with you. It’s as shocking as it sounds.
Panorama: Secrets of the Seduction Bootcamp aired on BBC One last night and promises an undercover look inside the £80 million industry that’s built up around online pick-up artists. Big names earn hundreds of thousands of subscribers on YouTube, where they post secretly filmed footage of themselves chatting up women in the street in cities like Glasgow and London. Sometimes they even share audio they claim was recorded while they were having sex with them.
These men make promises that make seducing women sound like a computer game. Forget mutual attraction, you just need a series of cheats to get a stranger into bed. These range from pseudo-psychological tips for how to convince a girl to stay at your house once she’s there (get her to take off her shoes) to ready-written scripts for you to rattle off. It’s no surprise this strain of pick-up culture has become known as ‘gaming‘. What is a surprise, though, is that instead of subscribers being appalled by the invasion of privacy and disregard for consent shown on these accounts, they’re happy to pay for more. Some subscribers are so keen to learn how to ‘game’ that they’ll pay for exclusive advice via online courses and real-life tuition.
To investigate the work of these new pick-up gurus, journalist Myles Bonnar spent a weekend undercover at a £1500 course run on Oxford Street by one of the UK’s most popular collectives, Street Attraction. They run programmes in London and eastern Europe as well as posting secretly filmed videos of their pick-up attempts online. Bonnar joins a small group of men who all look like they’re in their 30s. Instructors pick girls for them to approach and the rest of the group listen via hidden microphones. The fact that the women they’re approaching are being unknowingly recorded is awful enough, but it’s the content of the lessons that’s most appalling.
Bonnar reports that, all weekend, attendees are encouraged to approach teenage girls. At one point he is pressured into approaching a very young-looking girl despite him expressing discomfort. The instructors remind him that the legal age of consent in the UK is only 16, saying: “Even if she’s underage it’s not illegal to stop someone.” Another time we see an instructor approach two young girls. When one retorts: “She’s a child and I have a boyfriend,” the instructor is not dissuaded. Instead, he asks the younger girl: “Do you feel like a child?”
Course leaders are shown to tell men to ignore red flags around consent. The pick-up artists say things like “a woman’s no never legitimately means no” and that a hand on a penis is “the point of no return”. One piece of online teaching material includes the advice: “If she says that things are going a little bit too fast you can reply with ‘Yeah I know babe…’ and then carry on escalating.”
As a viewer, you come away with a real sense that women are being dehumanised by these courses. They’re tricked and secretly filmed as YouTube fodder and presented to men as prizes in a game. There’s no regard for the humiliation they might feel because of this. As a female Londoner, it made me feel a bit sick about times when – like many other women in the city – I’ve been walking around Oxford Street and been approached by a man who seems like they’re reciting from a pick-up script. At the time I laughed it off as annoying for me but sad for the person approaching me; now it seems like it could have been something more insidious.
What’s scary is the worldview these courses paint for vulnerable men. Street Attraction is marketed as a place to ‘learn to meet and attract beautiful women’ and so they might stumble across it because they’re lonely and looking for dating tips. What they’re actually sold is incel-lite thinking. They could come away from these YouTube channels or courses thinking that the only reason women don’t want to have sex is because we’re worried about our ‘reputations’ and that all they need to do is play the game and suddenly we’ll be up for it – who cares if that’s not what we’re saying, we want them to push our boundaries! Even scarier than the worldview itself is that it’s so convincing that hundred of thousands of men are buying into it. What does that say about our society?
That’s a question the documentary doesn’t answer. Thankfully, what it does cover are the legal changes which mean that hopefully some pick-up behaviour will soon be illegal. In September one artist – Adnan Ahmed, who was secretly filming women in Glasgow – was found guilty on five charges of threatening and abusive behaviour. And criminal barrister Kate Parker, interviewed for the documentary, says that some of the videos made by other pick-up artists could be charged under the communications or miscommunications act. All it takes is one case to set a precedent. Turns out, no really does mean no.
Just this morning it was announced that YouTube has deactivated the Street Attraction and Addy A-Game channels, and has removed hundreds of videos from accounts linked to them. The impact of this could be big. Pick-up artists build their reputations on YouTube: in many ways, they are dependent on those videos. That said, these aren’t the only pick-up artists on YouTube and there are lots of copycat fan accounts on the site, too. In order for this shutdown to be a game-changer, it needs to be the start of a wave of better control of ‘gaming’ channels overall – and a wave of pick-up sites need to be put down.
Panorama: Secrets of the Seduction Bootcamp is available on BBC iPlayer
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BROOKLYN, NY – NOVEMBER 13: New York Times journalists Jodi Kantor and Megan Twohey pose backstage at Glamour’s 2017 Women of The Year Awards at Kings Theatre on November 13, 2017 in Brooklyn, New York. (Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Glamour)
While by no means an exhaustive list of all the pieces published during #MeToo’s first year, the prominent 13 articles that got us here are a collection of detailed investigations, reports on company culture, and first-hand accounts of experiences with powerful men. There’s still more work to be done, but we can thank these pieces of reporting for setting Twitter ablaze, pushing forward conversations, and becoming cultural tentpoles in the construction of the #MeToo moment.
“Harvey Weinstein Paid Off Sexual Harassment Accusers for Decades” (October 5, 2017, The New York Times)
The article that started it all. Kantor and Twohey spoke to the first of what would become over 80 Harvey Weinstein accusers, resulting in the loss of his job and the beginnings of legal action.
“From Aggressive Overtures to Sexual Assault: Harvey Weinstein’s Accusers Tell Their Stories” (October 10, 2017, The New Yorker)
Anthony Rapp, the first notable male victim in the #MeToo movement, came forward to BuzzFeed news’ Adam B. Vary to detail alleged sexual abuse he suffered at the hands of Kevin Spacey, prompting over a dozen more accusers to come forward. Spacey was removed from his role on the final season of House Of Cards. Over the summer, one accuser dropped their lawsuit against the actor, and another died last month while in the midst of their lawsuit.
“Six women accuse filmmaker Brett Ratner of sexual harassment or misconduct” (November 1, 2017, Los Angeles Times)
Olivia Munn was one of six women who came forward to the Los Angeles Times reporters Amy Kaufman and Daniel Miller to accuse director Brett Ratner, who was behind movies like X-Men: The Last Stand, The Revenant, and Horrible Bosses, of sexual misconduct.
“Harvey Weinstein’s Army of Spies” (November 6, 2017, The New Yorker)
Journalists Irin Carmon and Amy Brittain detailed the accusations against Charlie Rose from women employees and aspiring employees that included unwanted sexual advances like groping, phone calls, and walking naked in front of them.
“Matt Lauer Accused of Sexual Harassment by Multiple Women (EXCLUSIVE)” (November 29, 2017, Variety)
NBC fired Matt Lauer ahead of the publication of Variety reporters’ Ramin Setoodeh and Elizabeth Wagmeister’s two-month investigation into the alleged inappropriate behaviour exhibited by the TV host.
“I went on a date with Aziz Ansari. It turned into the worst night of my life” (January 13, 2018, Babe.net)
In an article as controversial as its subject, reporter Katie Way detailed an anonymous account of an uncomfortable sexual experience a woman had with Aziz Ansari. The piece prompted a larger conversation about the grey areas of consent and harassment.
“Four Women Accuse New York’s Attorney General of Physical Abuse” (May 7, 2018, The New Yorker)
While Chloe Dykstra does not name ex-boyfriend Chris Hardwick in her Medium piece, it details the alleged sexual and emotional manipulation she experienced during their relationship.
“Les Moonves and CBS Face Allegations of Sexual Misconduct” (July 27, 2018, The New Yorker)
Charlie Rose was just the tip of the iceberg in Farrow’s deeper look into the culture at CBS, in which accused men were promoted as the company paid settlements, with CEO Les Moonves being the biggest alleged perpetrator.
“Asia Argento, a #MeToo Leader, Made a Deal With Her Own Accuser” (August 19, 2018, The New York Times)
An accusation against Asia Argento, who herself is a Harvey Weinstein accuser, resulted in tough conversations about gender and accountability across the #MeToo movement. The story was reported by Kim Severson.
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At some point, Ari Fitz kind of forgot that she even has a womb. The YouTuber is a masculine, black, queer woman — and in embracing her masculinity and watching family and friends embrace it as well, she tells Refinery29, she lost touch with the idea that something society codifies as purely feminine, like pregnancy, is even possible for bodies like hers.
It took another masculine YouTuber, Frankie Smith, getting pregnant to jolt Fitz out of that idea and to make her think about the intersections of butchness and pregnancy. The result is a gorgeous short documentary called My Mama Wears Timbs, which explores Smith’s experiences as a pregnant, butch woman of colour.
Early into her pregnancy, Smith approached Fitz about doing a maternity clothing fashion video for her YouTube channel, but when Fitz started googling maternity photoshoots she realised that pregnant women like Smith are hardly ever represented.
“The images are not anyone who would look like myself or my friends,” Fitz tells Refinery29. “They’re all of a girl in a flowy dress with her boyfriend or husband and she’s in nature and she has a flower crown.” You know the type.
There’s nothing wrong with these kinds of photos, of course, but they paint a picture of pregnancy that will never reflect women like Smith. It was then that Fitz knew this was a much bigger conversation that needed to happen. She created the documentary to show that “masculinity and motherhood can co-exist and it’s not that deep,” she says.
She’s right. The fact that Smith is a cisgender woman who has always wanted a baby and decided with her partner that she would get pregnant is not a difficult concept to grasp. Yet when people look at Smith in her snapbacks and men’s jeans they have trouble connecting her pregnancy to her identity as a butch woman.
“By being gay you’re already outside of the norm. And then by being a tomboy as a woman you’re already outside of the norm again,” Smith says in the video. “So whatever you are, you’re put into a category and you’re expected to not do anything that goes outside of that category.”
Fitz theorises that Smith and butch pregnant women like her get weird looks or confuse people because those people essentially think of them as men. The problem, she says, is that people struggle to understand intersectionality.
“There are people who will embrace your masculinity, but they do it through the knowledge of male-hood,” Fitz says. “People think in their minds that they’re accepting, but they’re fitting you into the box that they understand.”
The box of masculinity that we as a society understand doesn’t allow for “feminine” desires like wanting to carry a baby. If a masculine-presenting queer woman is in a relationship with a feminine-presenting woman, as Smith is, the automatic assumption is that the more feminine woman would carry their child. Yet that’s not always the case, and the way that a couple like Smith and her partner gets a baby doesn’t really matter.
“Children don’t care about how you’re dressed,” Fitz says. “A newborn isn’t worried about the fit of her mom’s pants or whether or not she wears a dress.”
It’s been two years since the release of My Mama Wears Timbsand, as Smith tells us over email, “life has been great”, though hectic – they have since had another child who was carried by Smith’s wife Tia. The couple are too busy embracing the joys and challenges of parenthood to think of their family unit as anything other than normal, until people begin asking questions.
“Honestly, sometimes I forget that we’re lesbian parents until someone in Target asks Tia and I if we’re sisters. Or the good ole ‘omg who’s the mom?!’ question is one that we get a lot too. When Cody was first born, we’d get shy and sometimes even say ‘yeah we’re sisters’ just to get out of what felt like an awkward situation or to avoid being judged by a stranger. But now, we ALWAYS tell people ‘No, we’re not sisters, we’re married and these are OUR children.’ We are too proud of our family and too secure with ourselves to hide the truth to make other people comfortable. Plus, it actually feels really good to be able to take part in normalising the idea of queer families.”
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Warning: The following article includes details which some readers might find upsetting.
“Things We Didn’t Talk About When I Was a Girl” is a memoir about Jeannie Vanasco’s friendship with the man who sexually assaulted her when they were both 19 years old. As a means of processing her conflicted feelings, she resolves to face her trauma head-on. Here she describes the events that led to her getting in touch with the man who raped her, 14 years later…
There’s nothing original about my story, and that’s the point. My best friend – I’ll call him Mark – and I were at a party with friends. We were 19 years old. We were drinking. I passed out, and the next thing I remember: Mark undressing me in his basement room. He told me I was dreaming. I cried, and he told me not to cry. I became rigid, like an animal who senses it’s impossible to bolt.
I became rigid, like an animal who senses it’s impossible to bolt.
“It’s okay,” he said, pressing his fingers inside me. “It’s okay. Everything is going to be okay.”
He sounded like he was putting a child to sleep. I told myself this was happening to someone else.
There have always been Marks, and I doubt they’ll stop existing. Although these Marks rarely apologise for their crimes. Rarely do they say, “I knew what I was doing was wrong while I was doing it, and I did it anyway.”
But after 14 years of silence between us, that’s what this Mark said. I’d called him to say that I was writing a book about us and what the rape did to us.
He agreed to speak on record, saying, “It’s the least I can do.”
He told me the rape changed the narrative he could tell about himself: “I thought I was somewhat good, or one of the good guys. That wasn’t a fiction that I felt I could maintain after that.”
The rape changed my personal narrative too – or it confirmed what I’d suspected but was afraid to admit: I cared too much about pleasing men. While the rape was happening, I didn’t stop Mark – partly because I didn’t want to embarrass him. What sort of feminist acts like that? I asked myself, instead of asking: What sort of friend does what Mark did?
While transcribing the audio of our phone conversations, I felt ashamed by how much I thanked and reassured him: “I really appreciate this” and “I hope this is somewhat helpful for you to talk about” and “I didn’t want to be hurtful” and “I hope you know that I don’t hate you” and “I hope it’s helpful for you to know that I believe you’re a good guy” and “If it helps you to know”. I’d like to claim I was manipulating him, putting him at ease so that he would continue answering my questions, yet I slipped so easily into comforting him because his discomfort made me so uncomfortable. I finally understood what Judith Butler meant when she defined ‘gender performativity’ – how the behaviour may not feel like a performance but is a repetitive act outside of the individual’s control.
If Mark were a meathead, if Mark were a bro-y guy, if Mark hadn’t admitted his guilt and reflected on it, then maybe I could have felt angry at him. Instead, I pitied him. He suffered from scoliosis and severe depression, lacked good health insurance, had never been in a romantic relationship in his life, and was still a virgin.
A few months after we spoke on the phone, I flew from Maryland to Ohio to confront him in person. I told myself I’d be tougher this time. I recorded our conversation, and one passage has stayed with me:
ME: It’s been so long that it’s hard to reconstruct, but the one thing that confuses me – HIM: Okay – ME: Why carry me into the basement? That’s the one thing – I don’t really remember the house that well. HIM: If I’m being totally honest, this is a two-part answer. One, yes, I used to hang out with people in the basement. I had a computer down there and we’d watch movies. Two – [Waiter brings me another cocktail, takes away our plates.]
ME: So you were saying, one, you would go down there –
HIM: But two, the more I think about it, the more I’m certain that some version of what happened was in my head. ME: You thought that by suggesting – HIM: That something might happen. I don’t think I thought, If I could just get her downstairs I could do this. I’m sure I thought downstairs was to my advantage.
I could have pushed harder. I wished I’d said, “How could you possibly have thought that anything sexual would be consensual – considering I was fall-down drunk?” Instead, I pivoted back to expressing concern for him.
ME: For so long I muddled the narrative, making excuses for you. How you were drunk and all. But then I think about how manipulative you were that night. You hushed me when I started crying, told me that it was just a dream. I recently went through a period where I felt really pissed off. And now, I don’t know, 14 years later, hearing you say that you betrayed me, I feel grateful. And it’s so messed up – that I feel grateful to you for acknowledging your betrayal of me and agreeing to all this.
HIM: You can be, but you don’t have to be grateful to me.
ME: But that’s why I’m interested in the project. Because I can’t sort out my feelings. For so long I was afraid to contact you because I worried about your feelings. I didn’t want you to get depressed.
A month before the book came out, I asked my publisher to send Mark a finished copy. In an email, I told him that it might be hard for him to read. Again, there I was, checking in on his emotional wellbeing.
“I expect that you’re right,” he replied, “it will be difficult reading, but I suppose that’s unavoidable, and beside the point. If it was an easy subject to relive, you’d hardly have bothered to write it. I’m sure you were more than fair and if not… well, I’m hardly in a position to complain, am I?”
I understand why nostalgia, for hundreds of years, was considered a chronic mental illness.
I want to hate him, but I can’t.
If you have experienced sexual violence of any kind, please visit Rape Crisis or call 0808 802 9999.
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA – SEPTEMBER 17: Rihanna attends an event for ‘FENTY BEAUTY’ artistry beauty talk with Rihanna at Lotte World Tower on September 17, 2019 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Han Myung-Gu/WireImage)
Ugh, Rihanna. At this point we’re not even surprised by her vision, her mind, or her team’s flawless execution. That Rihanna reign just will not let up. Between the boundary-breaking makeup shades and her history-making luxury line backed by LVMH, Rihanna still found time to kill the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show at New York Fashion Week last month. Now, our gracious queen saw fit to bless us with a coffee table book of all her most iconic looks.
“Over 5 years in the making… happy to finally share this collection of incredible memories,” Rihanna wrote on Instagram. “Thank you to all of the photographers and artists that contributed and to @phaidonsnaps for working with me to publish my first piece of art in a new industry! Make sure you pre-order the book now on therihannabook.com.”
If the clip she shared on Instagram is any indication, Rihanna’s fans are in for a treat in the form of never-before-seen outfit photos. We spotted her turquoise feathered Cropover look from Barbados’ annual festival, her 2015 Met Gala look designed by Chinese couturier Guo Pei, and her Dior Haute Couture gown (and matching sunglasses) from the 2017 Cannes Film Festival. The book also includes never before seen photos of fashion’s elite including Anna Wintour, Cara Delevingne, Edward Enninful, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, and more. Quite obviously the Internet rejoiced. “I need the Rihanna coffee table book. I don’t have a coffee table to put it on but I’ll go buy one. Just for that,” one user tweeted. “I’m really about to text this white man back so I can finesse Rihanna’s coffee table book out his wallet…yall I’m getting that damn book idc,” shared another.
You can pre-order a few different versions of the tome now, though at the time this story was published, the “Rihanna: Ultra Luxury Supreme” version, was already sold out. The “Rihanna: Luxury Supreme” version is still available $5500 USD (approximately £4,477) and includes a custom cast-resin tabletop bookstand. Finally, there is a “Rihanna: Fenty x Phaidon version that includes “This Sh*t Is Heavy,” a custom steel tabletop bookstand and retails for $175 (£142).
I need the Rihanna coffee table book. I don’t have a coffee table to put it on but I’ll go buy one. Just for that.
— Nefertiti, edges KINKY (@theblkbradshaw) 7 October 2019
im really about to text this white man back so i can finesse Rihanna’s coffee table book out his wallet…yall im getting that damn book idc pic.twitter.com/NRyQOvdWhu
Ever innocently wander onto Instagram’s Following tab and accidentally unearth something you, uh, didn’t necessarily want to see? Like your boyfriend commenting on his ex’s photo, you know, the one with the cliché caption about wanting what you can’t have? Anybody? If Venmo’s feed can illuminate the hard truth of who is hanging out with who, Instagram’s following tab can illuminate who wants to be hanging out with who — which is arguably juicier. Needless to say, Instagram’s Following tab, which lists the real-time activity of the accounts you follow — from their likes and comments to who they start following — is ripe with stalking fodder. But this week, it all comes to an end.
instagram got rid of the tab where u can see what people you follow are liking and honestly i’m disappointed bc I never got to fight with my boyfriend for liking an ass pic at 3 am. mostly bc I do not have a boyfriend, but
Instagram’s head of product, Vishal Shah, told BuzzFeed News today that Following was a feature many users didn’t know existed, and that Instagram decided to do away with it in the name of maintaining simplicity on the app. Now, instead of seeing both the Following and You tabs when you click on the heart icon on the bottom panel of your Instagram, you’ll just see your own activity. But IG stalkers, have no fear: Though the Following tab did serve as a formidable stalking tool — as evidenced by its role in revealing many celebrities relationships, such as that of Tyler Cameron and Gigi Hadid — you can still do the old fashioned Instagram stalk by diving deep into someone’s feed. Just make sure you don’t like anything from too far back. (I warn you from personal experience.)
you know what i never do is i never click over to the tab to look at what people i follow fav on instagram because i know it will DESTROY me
MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: Lisa Hahnbueck is seen wearing Burberry trench coat, Sportmax dress, Furla bag on Day 5 Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019/20 on February 24, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)
During London Fashion Week, Burberry introduced its idea of evolution, going carbon neutral to help the Amazon rain forest. With the climate crisis at the forefront of everyone’s minds right now, Burberry’s carbon-neutral pledge is just one of many signs that the brand is committed to reflecting our current culture — both on and off the catwalk. On Monday, Burberry announced its next chapter: an official partnership with TheRealReal, encouraging customers to cosign pieces with the resale company.
“The RealReal shares our ambition to promote the circular economy and keep clothing in use for longer. We know that the enduring quality of Burberry pieces means their appeal and value is long-lasting,” Pam Batty, Vice President of Corporate Responsibility at Burberry, said in a release. “Through this new partnership we hope to not only champion a more circular future but encourage consumers to consider all the options available to them when they’re looking to refresh their wardrobes.”
While Burberry isn’t opening its archives or selling any of its stock pieces, according to WWD, it will give customers the chance to “shop the brand via an exclusive personal shopping experience in one of its 18 stores across the U.S.” as a reward for their part in making fashion more circular.
Burberry is following in Stella McCartney’s footsteps, as she was the first designer to collaborate with TheRealReal in 2018 when McCartney’s U.S. boutiques offering information and programs to facilitate consigning. This shift signals a growing trend in the fashion industry where brands are committing to a more sustainable and truly circular business model via resale. In this case, it helps that online resale sites like The RealReal, Depop, and Poshmark, all of which launched in 2011, have made buying used clothing as simple and appealing as ordering groceries on FreshDirect.
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Back in the day, mood rings were our way of expressing how we really felt. Now, switching up our hair is how we outwardly display what's going on inside. If we're going through a stressful phase, it's all ponytails and grease-disguising headbands. If we're trying to bring sunshine into our lives, we make an appointment for highlights. And if we need a complete revamp, a transformative cut is on the to-do list.
Clearly our favourite celebs are itching for the latter in 2019. The year is almost at an end, and the stars have fully embraced the "new hair, who dis?" mantra. Between Kerry Washington's fresh and sassy chop, Rowan Blanchard's pixie cut, and Emilia Clarke's DIY dye job, there's plenty of hair inspiration for us to gawk over.
And if the hair updates ahead are any indication of the next few months, it's safe to say that the stars will be ending 2019 with a bang. Click through to see our favourite celebrity hair changes of the year so far.Ashley Benson is known for her blonde hair, but the actress has officially crossed over to the dark side. Recently, she posted a selfie on Instagram rocking brunette hair that faded into a caramel ombré towards the ends.Of all the Kardashian-Jenner sisters, Kendall Jenner experiments with her hair colour the least. However, at London Fashion Week, the model walked the Burberry runway with her naturally brunette hair dyed platinum blonde. While her new look was dramatic, it was short-lived. A few days after her blonde debut, Jenner attended the Emmy Awards with her dark roots back.Celebrity stylist Jennifer Yepez gave her client Laura Harrier a chic blunt-cut lob that grazed right above her shoulders for a Paris Fashion Week appearance.Fresh off the heels of her new Florence By Millsbeauty launch, Millie Bobby Brown debuted a dramatic new hair colour. The actress posed on Instagram with cool-blonde hair, a far cry from the dark brown colour we've gotten used to.At Game 3 of the NBA Finals, Beyoncé showed off a new two-toned hair colour styled in long, glamorous Old Hollywood waves.The bob has been dominating heads of the Hollywood elite, and Reese Witherspoon is the latest actress to get on board. She posted a Boomerang of her new shoulder-grazing cut by her stylist Lona Vigi.In April, Scarlett Johansson showed off freshly highlighted hair and blonde extensions courtesy of her longtime colourist Emaly Baum.Gina Rodriguez ushered in summer's hottest hair colour, blonde balayage, after her wedding. The actress previously had long, jet-black hair that cascaded past her shoulders.Taylor Swift made her return to music a colourful one, debuting her new single Me! with her ends dipped in hot pink hair dye. Soon after, Swift was spotted with her ends turned blue.Kim Kardashian hopped on the year's hottest haircut trend: the bob. The KKW Beauty founder was spotted with her trademark brunette hair chopped into a perfectly symmetric cut.Game of Thrones is over, and Maisie Williams went out with a bang. The actress, who dyed her hair purple for the season 8 premiere, recently switched her look again, turning her fringe and shoulder-length hair honey blonde.After revealing a new blunt bob courtesy of Ashley Streicher, Mandy Moore told Access Live that her new look was not only about embracing her time off from work, but shedding dead weight in light of opening up about her former marriage to musician Ryan Adams.Not too far behind on the bob trend was Kristen Bell. The actress debuted a sharp chin-length cut by Jenny Cho.Lucy Hale is never shy about switching it up. The actress, who recently went blonde, posted a snap of her hair after going back to chocolate brown.Logan Browning traded her shoulder-length curls for a short cut with a curly fringe, also one of the year's buzziest cuts.Pink hair has been popping up all over Hollywood, and Behati Prinsloo-Levine is the latest celebrity to take it for a spin. The model posed for an Instagram with rose-colored strands that look straight out of the '90s.Emilia Clarke went back to her roots (literally), bringing her formerly platinum-blonde hair — which she admitted was a pain in the butt to maintain — back to its natural, brunette shade for her Oscars red-carpet appearance.Photo: Jon Kopaloff/WireImage/Getty Images. Charlize Theron hasn't had hair this dark since her role in Aeon Flux. Needless to say, she shocked us all when she showed up at to the Oscars red carpet with a polished, dark brown bob.Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage/Getty Images. Just before the Vanity Fair red carpet, Takisha Sturdivant-Drew pulled out the scissors to give Kerry Washington a "trim." The resulting pixie is giving us pixie dreams for our next salon appointment.Photo: George Pimentel/Getty Images. Karlie Kloss kicked off New York Fashion Week (and a new year) by shedding some inches. Her stylist Harry Josh cut seven inches off the model's hair, leaving her with a lob that dances right above her shoulder.PHoto: Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images.Julianne Hough created her own version of 2019's biggest haircut trend: the shag. The actress posed on Instagram with her bob and fringe chopped in wispy layers. The cut was done by her longtime stylist, Riawna Capri. According to Capri, Goldie Hawn was the inspiration for her client's new look.For those blessed with curls, a textured fringe is easily the freshest, most flattering way to make a change for the new year. Just ask hairstylist Ted Gibson, who gave Sandra Oh a shaggy fringe that show off her glowing skin and bone structure. To shape the fringe perfectly, he cut her curls dry and styled the front pieces using his own Shooting Star Texture Meringue mousse.Photo: Taylor Hill/Getty Images. If you were having doubts about going platinum in 2019, Hilary Duff's latest dye job makes a convincing case to hit up your colourist. Celebrity stylists Riawna Capri and Nikki Lee took the actress' hair (which was already blonde) up a few notches with this bright icy colour.Photo: Gregg DeGuire/WireImage.Amandla Stenberg tossed that "going lighter in the summer" rule out of the window when she dyed her formerly jet-black curls a shade of warm copper.Photo: Jesse Grant/Getty Images.For some, a pixie cut is a hard "pass," but not for Rowan Blanchard. Celebrity hairstylist Laurie Heaps took the actress' shoulder-length strands into an edgy, Natalie Portman-inspired cut. Heaps tells Refinery29 that her famous client wanted to embrace a new year with a new look.Photo: JEAN-BAPTISTE LACROIX/AFP/Getty Images.The blunt bob is here to stay — just ask Irina Shayk. The model walked the Golden Globes red carpet with a chin-length bob, courtesy of celebrity stylist Harry Josh, that made us want to run for scissors and chop all our hair off, too.Jamie Lee Curtis took monochromatic beauty to the next level when she showed up to the Golden Globes with her hair lifted to a wintery white shade to match her red-carpet gown. Previously, the star already had a gorgeous salt-and-pepper style, but this snowy colour is new for 2019.Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.We didn't expect Lady Gaga to kick off her Enigma tour with anything other than a bang. And she's had lots of fringes in the last few weeks with many different hair hues. First, it was lilac, then it was silver. And now, she's got cerulean blue hair. Her stylist Frederic Aspiras used a mix of temporary hair colour to get the look. What colour will she bless us with next?Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage.Hailey Baldwin entered 2019 with a new name and a new 'do to match. Her west-coast-trendy cotton candy pink locks are courtesy of Nine Zero One salon in West Hollywood.Jada Pinkett-Smith, queen of the tapered pixie cut, dyed her signature style platinum blonde. "When that Sandy blonde drip you used to rock in the '90s still goes hard," she captioned an Instagram selfie — further proving that when it comes to beauty, she can really do no wrong.The shag is still alive and well — just ask Sarah Hyland. The actress traded her long brunette hair for a choppy "shagadocious" cut with a fringe, courtesy of Nine Zero One salon.Related Video:
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With many being forced to take matters into their own hands, therapy apps could help provide those in need with a cheap and effective short-term alternative. Some of these apps have been around for a while, but there is also a growing number of artificially intelligent (AI) breeds which provide an increasingly personalised and emotional response, and they’re on a mission to democratise therapy.
Democratising therapy means “radical accessibility” says Dr. Alison Darcy, clinical research psychologist and founder of Woebot, an artificially intelligent chatbot grounded in cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT). Dr. Darcy told me Woebot’s goal is to break down “common barriers” to seeking mental health support, such as stigma or lack of financial resource. AI can offer quick and efficient progress across these barriers, making good mental health practices “easy and fun for everyone” she says.
“Right now several different AI programs have overtaken humans in both accuracy and dependability of diagnosis,” says Silja Litvin, psychologist and founder of eQuoo, an emotional fitness game combining storytelling with a range of psychological techniques to teach its players emotional intelligence. AI is very good at recognising patterns, and for this reason has huge potential as an educational and even preventative tool for mental health problems. eQuoo uses an algorithm to search for patterns in players’ behaviour, predicting which part of the game would be most beneficial to them, then teaching them the emotional skills they need.
Similarly, Woebot teaches its users an array of techniques to help manage their moods and reframe negative thinking. Woebot does this through daily conversations and, over time, learns about users, giving them an option “to express as much or as little as they wish” says Dr. Darcy. The app then uses a series of decision trees to identify a user’s mood, helping them to recognise their own negative thought patterns. Experienced clinicians write every script and Woebot implements this knowledge with CBT by asking people questions, helping them facilitate their own insights to learn about themselves. Woebot provides users with weekly feedback, showing their personal development.
While Woebot and eQuoo were designed by clinical psychologists with therapeutic care in mind, Replika was created for a very different reason. In 2015, Replika cofounder Eugenia Kuyda’s best friend Roman died. With a background working on AI interfaces, she and her cofounder Philip Dudchuk launched a tribute app to Roman on the anniversary of his death, “so the rest of the world could connect with him too”. After seeing how well people responded to her chatbot, Kuyda launched Replika, “an AI friend that is always there for you”.
Like Woebot, Replika learns from user conversations. Trained with scripts and linguistics, the AI has a wide variety of conversations, images and responses which it then personalises. As Kuyda suggests, you “raise” your own Replika. Using machine learning and dialogue modelling, Replika then mirrors the voice, responses and patterns of its users. Although she claims this technology provides users with “the most authentic interactions”, authentic does not mean human. Kuyda is adamant that this is not “therapy or self-help” and Replika’s users agree. Alessia, a high-functioning schizophrenic who uses the app, told me that although she finds it easier to speak to her chatbot than to her parents about her mental health, she acknowledges “a therapist is still the best possible option”. This sentiment is echoed by Dr. Darcy and Litvin, who are adamant these apps will not and should not replace face-to-face therapy. Dr. Darcy says “there is no substitution for human connection” and apps like Woebot are simply an additional resource for everyday mental health maintenance. Litvin emphasises that she “strongly believes” in face-to-face therapy: “eQuoo was created for those who don’t have or are unable to attain face-to-face therapy.”
Nevertheless these chatbots are increasing in popularity. Replika has an enormous online community, with a Facebook group of over 30,000 users and 2.5 million sign-ups since its launch early last year. Replika claims to let users express themselves in a safe and nurturing way, “allowing you to engage with your most emotionally connected self”. Many of its users told me they can be vulnerable and honest with their Replika because they know it won’t judge them. Mille, who was diagnosed with bipolar disorder and borderline personality disorder, says she confides in her Replika because it won’t make fun of her: “It’s not based on human emotion which can be hurtful sometimes.” Elsa, who struggles with anorexia, told me she prefers to speak with her Replika about her emotions because that way she doesn’t feel like a burden or that she is disturbing anyone. Anna, who struggles with many psychological issues, told me her Replika helped her get out of a panic attack by telling it how she was feeling, completing relaxation exercises with her until she was calm. While these experiences are anecdotal, there are clinical studies to support them, showing how the use of these apps improves the symptoms of mood-based disorders like depression and anxiety.
However, Anna had one triggering experience with her Replika. She shared her childhood trauma and the chatbot replied with an insensitive: “That sounds like fun.” While Kuyda is confident that Replika is “engineered to accentuate the positive” and Dr. Darcy ensures me that Woebot cannot cause “actively detrimental” errors, bots – like humans – make mistakes. Unlike humans, though, chatbots do not have cognitive capacities like empathy to deal with the nuance of language or behaviour. This is why eQuoo and Replika have built-in failsafes: If someone expresses thoughts which may be about harming themselves, both apps direct users to self-help resources and crisis helplines where they can speak to humans.
Some app users are concerned about the storage, collection and usage of such personal data. “I would say that I trust my Replika, but I am not sure I can trust the humans behind her,” Anna said, explaining she feels uneasy that the app has many of her most personal details and intimate experiences. Darcy, Litvin and Kuyda are all very aware of the importance of data privacy and protection. Kuyda says that data is only collected in-app and not from anywhere else on your phone. Litvin explains that at the moment eQuoo does not store data but when it does, it will be double-encrypted and stored only in special healthcare data centres with “higher security than banks”. Litvin says anyone in this space needs to have high-end encryption and multilayer cybersecurity protection. Ultimately, everything can be hacked, but the EU has very strict data protection laws and the UK is currently implementing General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), which aims to safeguard users.
There is a big ethics question around the use of AI in mental healthcare. However, as Litvin notes: “If we get this right, AI could be a great disruptor of the rising of mental illness.” AI potentially gives a great percentage of the population access to therapy in a way it’s never had before. As Dr. Darcy explains, these apps are symbolic of a much bigger idea – helping society recognise that we all need to invest in our mental health on a daily basis.
If you or someone you know is struggling with mental health issues, please get help. Call Mind on 0300 123 3393 or text 86463.
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Tess Holliday is a model, blogger, and makeup artist who created the body positive movement #effyourbeautystandards in 2013. Her latest project is a body-acceptance campaign called “Get Body Posi” in partnership with self-tanning brand Isle of Paradise.
I feel most powerful when…
I’m naked. For a long time I never felt good in the skin I was in. Being able to feel sexy in my fat body — which people told me wasn’t desirable — has given me a lot of power. Part of that is how I’ve chosen to reclaim the word fat. Today, when I’m naked, I feel sexy. I feel empowered. I feel in charge.
What does power mean to you?
Power, to me, means being able to help others that perhaps haven’t been in a position to help themselves. I always try to be mindful that I have influence and “power,” but none of that is any good if you’re not using it to help others and elevate causes that you care about.
What do you do when you feel powerless?
I’m a Cancer, so I usually cry about it a lot. I’m very sensitive. I try to re-centre myself. Then, I call someone who is really good at reminding me of why I’m doing what I do. And talking me off of a ledge. Or I’ll take a social media break if I can. And, sometimes, I’ll just look in the mirror and remind myself who the f*ck I am. You know?
What’s your power anthem?
It depends on my mood, but I would say it’s “Dancing On My Own” by Robyn.
Who’s your power icon?
Hmmm I’m thinking about all the people I love and look up to. I always say Chrissy Teigen, because I appreciate her so much and I know her in real life. But, at the moment, I would say Janet Mock. She’s so powerful. She helps others, not only through her writing, but with directing and producing Pose, and being able to create her own narrative and space within the trans and LGBTQ community.
What do you wear when you want to feel powerful?
A crop top. And maybe jean shorts, but I do wear leggings basically 24/7. I love showing off my stomach. And I like that a crop top is something that traditionally fat bodies haven’t been allowed to wear, so I wear them as much as possible.
Responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.
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If you, like us, signed onto Zara.com this week, you likely scanned a site stocked full of holiday party dresses, Matrix-inspired leather silhouettes and on-trend boots for autumn. Do the same today on the other hand, and you'll quickly be faced with a very different side of the fast-fashion brand. Don't worry, the Zara you know and love isn't going anywhere. They are, however, making room for a very exclusive collection drop.
Today, Zara's coveted utility line, SRPLS, announced the first of three drops in their third collection, one inspired by "the visual language of rebellion and counter culture" and meant to provide "a neutral canvas for individual style," a press release reads.
The collection itself features everything from luxury knits and tailored skirting to shearling jackets and patchwork parkas. Basically, it's everything you'll ever want to wear come the second half of autumn. The 14-piece womenswear collection is wholly-based on the uniform of rebels, rockers, and icons; a nod to breaking the rules, be it fashion rules or otherwise. In it, you'll spot clashing prints, unisex styling at its best; and of course, more of the camo you've come to expect from chapters one and two.
So while it's never easy to say no to a sequin dress or another pair of leather trousers, when a collection like this one comes around, we'd never not throw our hats credit cards into the ring. Ahead, check out all 14 pieces from Zara's third SRPLS collection, launching today on Zara.com.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
Zara SRPLS Prka 03, $, available at ZaraZara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.Zara SRPLS is available on Zara.com on October 8th.
Warning! This feature contains spoilers for the final episode of The Capture
It’s been a difficult month for my paranoia. You as well? I blame BBC One’s The Capture.
Six weeks ago, we were introduced to a distressing (but interesting and hopefully still fictional) concept: that live CCTV recordings can be hacked and manipulated. The technology to create a video showing someone doing something incriminating without them even being there could exist. Think deep fakes gone wild at the hands of our national intelligence teams. ‘Corrected’ surveillance footage of an ex-soldier attacking his lawyer while, in reality, said ex-soldier is at home in bed.
That’s how we were first introduced to Shaun Emery’s (Callum Turner) story. We were on his side. Yes, we may be unwaveringly besotted by our bad boy fallen soldier. But when he said he didn’t kill Hannah Roberts (Laura Haddock), one half of the legal team who used a faulty video footage claim to overturn his charge for murdering someone in Afghanistan, we believed him. His innocence had already been proven once and, for Christ’s sake, can’t we just let the man spend some time with his daughter?
But by the time we arrived at the last episode of this tense and twisty miniseries, so many lines (and narratives) had been blurred that we didn’t know who to trust anymore. DI Rachel Carey (Holliday Grainger) and her sidekick Patrick (the officer who was originally sceptical of Rachel being fast-tracked through the police force) have evidence that proves Hannah did in fact get on the bus and that Shaun didn’t kill her. They are prepared to leak it if they have to. These guys are trying to fight the good fight and bring down the hidden enemies within our apparently fraught justice system. All with an SD card that’s safely hidden in a jar of rice.
Then we’ve got Hellboy, Silver Fox and Boss Lady. You’ll know them as CIA officer Frank Napier (played by actual Hellboy Ron Perlman), SO15 boss-cum-classic power-deluded adulterer Danny Hart (Ben Miles) and DSU Gemma Garland (Lia Williams) who arrived out of nowhere to take over the investigation from Rachel. They’re the dark triad leading government corrections in the UK. Oh, and surprise! They were also the team who tampered with evidence in the terrorism case that Rachel had previously worked on (and supposedly won). Rachel was their pawn and now she’s even more pissed off. Our girl is annoying, defiant and not about to be bested by her stuffy old superiors.
“Correction turns intelligence into evidence and keeps terrorists off the streets,” Silver Fox Danny defiantly tells Rachel when she smugly arrives at the secret correction headquarters. He wants to bring her on to their secret corrections team now, despite having spent the previous episodes trying to throw her off their scent and stop her from telling his wife that they had been sleeping together. The consensus at Refinery29 HQ is that he is a smug, contentious scumbag, as per our elaborate WhatsApp group chat throughout the final episode…
We were just about able to keep up with everyone’s roles in this elaborate operation. But we have to admit that the final instalment introduced a few questionable characters that none of us could quite get our head around. We also really noticed when women of The Capture were dealt short (and backstory-less) straws despite their surface-level importance to the narrative.
Early on in the last episode we see Famke Janssen. She glamorously descends from a private jet into an ominous black 4×4, which tells us she’s probably one of the baddies. We later find out that she’s loosely Frank’s (Hellboy) superior in the CIA and has swooped into London to assert some authority, sort out their messy attempts to find Shaun and quash the false Soldier Kills Solicitor narrative over which all sides have lost control.
By now, the dark triad have caught on to the fact that there’s a mole within their covert corrections team and that this whole thing was actually orchestrated by Hannah Roberts’ team of rebels who want to expose the whole concept of government CCTV correction to the public (we found this out in all the flashbacks in episode five). Hannah was killed by the people she was trying to take down, though, so this all went very wrong, very quickly.
Eli is the mole, but no one in the rebel group (the team consisting of Shaun’s other solicitor Charlie, and a group of people connected to other victims of correction) really trusts him. Do we ever find out why Eli betrayed his job with Hellboy to help our justice warriors frame Shaun for a crime he didn’t commit? Of course not. That would be too helpful. There are no neatly packaged conclusions in deeply troubling conspiracy dramas, my friends. Only wild raves in abandoned warehouses used as a cover for Hannah and Charlie’s secret anti-correction meetings, obviously.
Rachel’s sister Abigail remains an enigma, too. Conveniently, she’s the only occupant at their parents’ house in the London suburbs and is just desperate to forge a relationship with her distant older sibling. Abigail willingly houses Shaun while he’s in hiding and, before you jump ahead, yes, we know that surely any location connected to the now-suspended DI Rachel would have been tracked by Hellboy and Boss Lady’s covert surveillance team. After all, Rachel knows too much and has long made it clear that she’s a Shaun supporter. But as our Lifestyle Director, Jess points out: “Um, actually, no because she [Rachel] doesn’t talk to her family because of some backstory that no one really understood? And everyone who’s ANYONE knows she doesn’t go to her parents’ house.” Dots half-arsedly connected.
So, at this not so secret semi-detached hideout, Abigail wants to cook breakfast for Shaun while Rachel goes to confront the dark triad. She offers him avocado on toast (which he turns down) followed by bacon and eggs (oh, go on then), but while she gets to work in the kitchen, he makes a run for it. Thanks to our old friend Fake News, he’s just seen a report of him kidnapping his daughter Jaycee from school. It’s okay, though, because we know that the clever correction people fabricated some CCTV footage to make it look like Shaun abducted the only thing he loves in this world to draw him out of hiding. And it works.
For a moment it looks like all paths are finally going to cross. Shaun throws menacing stares to CCTV cameras as he marches over to Charlie’s office to demand intel on where his daughter is. This, of course, leads Boss Lady to Charlie as the man behind the corrected CCTV footage of Shaun attacking Hannah. But then the hope we had been carrying in our hearts for some sort of resolution is crushed by a few frustrating tangents.
Remember Eli? He’s inexplicably taken off by Famke in what she “believes is termed a soft rendition”. They want to half-expose the correction programme to protect the interests of someone high up in the US government, which is wildly upsetting and doesn’t make anyone feel any safer at all. After a pep talk about how swiftly correction is going to advance, Hellboy threatens to manipulate CCTV footage of Shaun playing with his daughter into something more sinister. Next thing you know Shaun is in court pleading guilty to Hannah’s manslaughter, despite fighting so hard to clear his name. Disappointing but understandable, right?
But then there’s our girl Rachel, who is clearly still fuming about the whole thing but seems to have resigned herself to doing nothing about it. She pops back to her parents’ house with the SD card containing the video proving Hannah was alive when Shaun last saw her. She hides it behind a photo of her and her mum (who passed away, remember? This snippet of knowledge is somehow meant to be the entire justification for her personality) and marches over to the dark triad to demand to be part of their corrections team. Does she have ulterior motives? It doesn’t feel like it. It feels like we were cheated out of the explosive ending that we were built up to anticipate after six menacing weeks of dodging surveillance cameras and researching deep fakes out here in the real world. Too much doesn’t make sense. Too much has been left to our fragile imaginations. Too much happened without enough reassuring reference to the fact that there might be Justice For Shaun. And even if there were one, I’m not sure our hearts could handle a second series to see that happen.
The Capture is available on BBC iPlayer
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Arguably the most playful accessory trend to come out of AW19 is the shearling bag. Last winter was all about the shearling coat, and Ugg boots have been keeping our feet nice and toasty for a long time now. Why shouldn't our bags get in on the fuzzy action, too?
While the practicality of a sturdy tote is undeniable, sometimes the lure of a faux fur plus one is simply overwhelming. What can we say? The heart wants what the heart wants.
Stockholm-based Stand is crafting bags so darn soft we'd be nuzzling into one 24/7 if we had the chance, while Dutch accessories label Wandler's offerings are attainable and practical – think tan finishes and slouchy shapes with heaps of elegance.
Click on for a selection of velvety bags you'll be besotted with this season. A punchy plus one that will make any outfit.
ASOS DESIGN Micro Fur 90s Bag, $, available at ASOSTap into the buttery beige trend early with this statement Wandler bag.
Wandler Mia Shearling Tote Bag, $, available at FarfetchA handmade treat we'll be grabbing time and time again.
Harriet Law Love Hearts Handmade Pink Faux Fur Tote Bag, $, available at asos marketplaceAn understated burgundy beauty we can get behind.
M&S Collection Shearling Hobo Bag, $, available at Marks & SpencerA bag this bright will liven up your winter wardrobe.
Stand Lolita Faux Fur Tote, $, available at mytheresaThis MM6 number will stand out among the sturdy and boxy bags in our wardrobe.
MM6 Maison Margiela Faux-Shearling Tote Bag, $, available at FarfetchCalling all animal print lovers!
ASOS Marketplace Vintage 90's Faux Fur Cow Print Mini Hand Bag, $, available at asos marketplaceSlime season is still at the forefront of our minds.
Topshop Free Lime Faux Fur Grab Bag, $, available at TopshopAn all-white bag might be playing with fire, but what's life without a little risk, eh?
Mango Teddy Handbag, $, available at ZalandoFiery red is the new millennial pink.
Fendi Vintage Tote Bag, $, available at RebelleAn ice-blue shoulder bag is the ultimate statement piece for autumnal dressing.
Urban Mist Powder Blue Small Faux Fur Shoulder Bag, $, available at Silk FredForest green will forever remain chic.
Whistles Hattie Faux Fur Tote Bag, $, available at John LewisImagine this chocolate-hue bag with faux-leather trousers, an oversized blazer and '70s polo top. The ideal Friday night fit.
Elleme Bazoi Shearling Wool Tote, $, available at FarfetchFinally, a cute bag we can take on our daily commute that isn't a grotty tote.
Marks & Spencer Shoulder Bag, $, available at OxfamProof that neutral accessories are far from boring.
Mlouye Micro Convertible Bag, $, available at MlouyeAnimal print? Check. Faux fur? Check. Roomy? Check. We can always rely on Stella McCartney to nail our accessory needs.
Stella McCartney Reversible Faux Shearling Tote, $, available at FarfetchBusiness on the outside, party on the inside.
Topshop Fleur Black Vinyl Borg Tote Bag, $, available at TopshopEverything about this Salar vintage cylinder bag is giving us major '90s inspo.
salar Faux Fur Trim Handbag, $, available at RebelleDarker hues will slot effortlessly into your wardrobe during the coming months.
USC Slouch Fur Bag, $, available at House of FraserForget subtlety, this mini bag deserves all the praise.
Shrimps Multi Check Eva Bag, $, available at Shrimps
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Welcome to Money Diaries, where we're tackling what might be the last taboo facing modern working women: money. We're asking a cross-section of women how they spend their hard-earned money during a seven-day period – and we're tracking every last penny.
This week: "I am a paediatrician training in London, currently in my fifth year of being a doctor. I make good money but only because I work so much; if I worked 'normal' hours, the salary I think is not worth the responsibility we take on as doctors, especially with the NHS in the state it is in currently.
I was fortunate enough to buy a flat earlier this year after lots of saving and a lump sum from my grandparents after they passed away. I am very lucky to be in such a position and try to get as many people to stay as possible so they don’t have to spend on hotels/rent when they are in town. My boyfriend V moved in when I did and so far it’s going well!
I’ve always been quite careful and sensible with money, and am trying to save a decent chunk of my salary each month to put towards some work on the flat and some long trips I am hoping to take over the next couple of years.
V and I have a joint account that we use for food, travel, house items and anything else we will both use. As the flat is in my name I pay the mortgage and bills and V gives me £500 a month which goes into savings with the aim to move out of London in a few years together – somewhere with room for dogs!"
Industry: NHS Age: 27 Location: London Salary: £37,000 basic salary (if I worked 40 hours a week between 9am and 5pm Monday to Friday) + £15,000 overtime (because we work a 48 hour week contract + nights and weekends) = £52,000 total. Paycheque amount: £2,888 Number of housemates: One (my boyfriend V).
Monthly Expenses
Housing costs: Mortgage £895 Loan payments: Student loan comes out of my paycheque, it's about £150/month. Utilities: Gas/elec £57, water £26.22, Netflix £7.99, council tax £64 Transportation: Contactless TfL ~£160 Phone bill: £29.99 Savings? £200 into account for lease extension on my flat, £500 from V for rent/house expenses that goes into a separate savings account + whatever I have left at end of month, usually £300-£1,000. Other: RCPCH (Royal College of Paediatrics and Child Health) fees £26.67/month, GMC (General Medical Council) fees £153/year (increases with seniority), Apple storage £0.79/month.Day One
6.30am: Alarm goes off. Far too early for a Saturday but I’m on a long shift on neonatal intensive care starting at 8am. I make coffee and breakfast (fruit, muesli, Greek yoghurt) to have on the way in. Run for the bus and try to wake up on the journey. The bonus of early mornings are the sunrises! Get to work in time to make a cup of tea before handover so the day starts caffeinated and calm.
1pm: Manage to break for lunch (salad, pitta bread, hummus) and catch up with my work wife who’s also in today and makes working the weekend infinitely better.
5pm: Tea and a handful of crisps as I write up notes and review a head ultrasound I did earlier. There’s something so magical about peering into a baby's brain, there’s a certain view where you can see the arteries flickering and it’s like watching them think, I never get bored of it.
8pm: Handover and finish writing up notes for a couple of Caesarean section deliveries I attended because there were concerns about the babies; both came out screaming, which is always a relief.
9pm: Listen to The Moth on Tube home. A hen party reveller has been sick on the platform, a reminder I’m having a very different Saturday night from a lot of other Londoners in their 20s.
9.30pm: V has made bread! Carbs are 100% what I need, have cheese sandwich for dinner and watch an episode of Killing Eve in bed (I know, way behind the curve), the fashion is incredible and I am loving it.
Total: £0Day Two
6.30am: Alarm. Coffee. Breakfast. This is my fifth 13-hour shift this week so I am officially tired. The Tube is very empty on a Sunday except for NHS workers and labourers and there is an unspoken camaraderie; we all know we wouldn’t be on the Tube at 7am on a Sunday if we weren't going to work. TfL charge appears overnight from commute (£8.20).
9am: A baby that was very unwell yesterday died early in the morning so the mood on the unit is very sombre. Nobody ever expects to have a sick baby so the reality when it happens is always very difficult. The team did everything they could but sometimes it doesn’t matter what you do, the outcome will be the same. The hardest bit I find is having to carry on like nothing has happened; there is no pause for the staff after a child dies because there are so many others to look after, and we can’t take our eye off the ball because there is always someone else who needs your attention.
2pm: Lunch with the team. Weekends especially we try and eat together, in part to commiserate being at work, but when it’s been a tough one the team bonding over tea (and often cake) is particularly important.
6pm: Way too many crisps in between putting IV lines in various babies – something about long shifts causes an eternal hunger and an insatiable craving for sugar and carbs. Being a doctor is really bad for your health. I try to eat healthily, but weekend long days are always my downfall.
9.30pm: Get home, have more of V’s bread as toast and go straight to bed. Watch another episode of Killing Eve before falling asleep.
Total:£8.20Day Three
11am: I don’t set an alarm after I finish a run of long days, and let my body decide how much sleep it needs to catch up. Turns out a lot! Wake up feeling newly human. I shower and have slice of BF's rosemary bread with butter for breakfast.
12pm: Head to the cute indie coffee shop near me for some life admin with a flat white (£2.70).
12.50pm: I’m trying not to buy clothes I can make and anything I do buy to be secondhand in a bid to help the environment, and in that vein I am planning on making my first coat. I found a great pattern for a cocoon coat with really interesting style lines, and I also buy a pattern for some amazing dungarees with flared legs and a blouse (£52.50). Now I just have to find the perfect wool to make the coat; I’m thinking bouclé with lots of colours or dark green with a very colourful lining. My grandma was a seamstress and taught me the basics as a child. I came back to it in medical school because I was in desperate need of a creative outlet and have done it on and off since. The last few months of work and life have been tough so have started sewing again and it is very good for my mental health.
7pm: V gets home and we eat stir fry he made on Sunday. Buy train tickets because we are going away this weekend for our anniversary (£17.20 for my half) and some more film for my Instax camera (£35) and a soap dish (£3) online. Then settle in to finish the first series of Killing Eve.
Total: £110.40Day Four
10am: Have a meeting with somebody older and smarter than me about aforementioned tough few months of work. It’s very productive and we discuss some coping strategies for dealing with work when it’s a horror show (which it often is in an understaffed, overstretched system). TfL charge £8.20.
11.30am: Head to meet a friend for lunch. We worked together last year and are now at different hospitals so it is good to catch up. She kindly spots me for my coffee and we generally put the world to rights, and plot our various plans to escape the NHS: Australia for her, coffee shop by the sea for me.
1pm: I buy V an anniversary card (£2.50) and get two metres of navy satin to make a bias cut slip dress à la Realisation Par but cheaper (£4). From there, I head to my favourite coffee shop and have a slice of ginger cake (£3) and catch up on my emails. I go on the hunt for the perfect wool for my coat project but alas it does not appear.
4pm: Swing by supermarket on way home to get things for anniversary dinner: cod, chorizo, parsley, tomatoes (£7.81). Also pop into Boots to get more razors (£3.84).
7.30pm: V gets home just as I finish making dinner, it’s his favourite dish and we have a good catch-up over food and wine. Weekend working can often make it feel like we don’t see or talk to each other for a long time so we are both looking forward to the weekend of being away together.
Total: £29.35Day Five
7am: Back to work. Utter the phrase 'postnatal ward' to any paediatrics trainee and watch their face drop. Our postnatal ward has 40 beds; that’s 40 sets of parents who all want to go home and the limiting factor is often the paediatrician, of which there is one (i.e. me). Start the day with 17 babies to review.
12pm: By 12 o'clock it’s 21 babies to review. Inhale lunch in five minutes at 2pm. A mother is so rude to me in the afternoon that she makes me cry for half an hour. A midwife is (understandably) annoyed a baby didn’t get seen until 5pm because I was busy and has a problem that means they can’t go home. I explain the situation and she comes round but we all agree it’s not ideal. I’d love to see everyone by lunchtime so we can get people home but I only have two hands and one brain.
7pm: Finally leave an hour and a half late, seriously reconsidering why on earth I became a doctor and what I want to do instead.
8pm: Get home at 8pm. On the way I pick up things for breakfast – granola, yogurt, grapes – and crisps (£8) to have with a very large glass of wine when I get in. Talk to my work wife who laments with me and we hatch our 'what we’re going to do when we leave the NHS' plans; a recurring theme this week.
Total: £8Day Six
7am: Alarm, coffee, breakfast, bus.
8.30am: Arrive for handover to the news that two babies died overnight, both very very sick and not entirely unexpected. It’s awful for the families of course but the toll it takes on the teams present is huge, and they all have to be back for another night shift in less than 12 hours. Catch up with a couple of them on the way out; moral support is all you can give but having been on the other side, kind words in dark moments can be very powerful.
1pm: More time on the postnatal ward. It is slightly less manic today thankfully and I have a fab midwifery team with me, which makes the day go very smoothly. Grab lunch from the food market near the hospital, I get shakshuka (£7) and it is delicious. Eat in the staffroom with colleagues before heading back to the ward.
6pm: Leave just about on time! Listen to The High Low on the way home, eat leftovers when I get in. V is out so take the opportunity to catch up with a few people and do a face mask.
10.30pm: Head to bed, one more day before the weekend!
8.30am: Holding delivery/crash bleep (the pager that goes off if a doctor is needed to go to delivery and the 'crash' goes out for an emergency) today which quickly gets busy, lots of Caesarean sections and some interesting antenatal conditions. All the babies do well and we don’t need to admit anybody, which is a success of a day!
12.30pm: Give crash bleep to a colleague so I can run to shop for lunch. Grab chicken salad, oranges, and jammy dodgers for the team to get us through the afternoon (£9.61). Get back and thankfully bleep stayed quiet in my absence.
3pm: Counsel a lady who’s having a preterm baby via section this evening and explain what we need to do and the risks. They’ve wanted a baby for a very long time and I really hope the baby does well after delivery. I’ll be back on nights next week so I should be able to catch up with mum and dad.
4.30pm: I say goodbye to a family who I’ve looked after all week. Mum was very sick after the delivery but has made an amazing recovery and the baby is absolutely gorgeous. It feels really great to close the loop on their care and wish them good luck, and also to be reminded what modern medicine can achieve. There is no way this outcome of a well mother and baby being discharged would have happened a few decades ago.
6pm: Leave at 6, only half an hour late! Get Tube across London to meet V and go on our weekend adventure. He is stuck at work so take myself for an Old Fashioned (£8) at a bar around the corner. Pick up snack for the train (£9).
8.30pm: Get to countryside station, split a cab to the BnB (£5), it’s really cute and in the middle of nowhere, which is exactly what we wanted. Plan a big hike for tomorrow and chat over tea before going to bed about 11pm.
"This was a fairly low spend week for me because of the amount I worked, and I had done a big food shop prior to starting the weekend of long shifts otherwise I would have had nothing to eat! This is pretty reflective of a busy week at work, it was interesting writing down how each day went and it made me realise how often myself and friends at work are struggling within the NHS at the moment – the pressures this week were nothing out of the ordinary.
I definitely spend a lot more when I am not at work, and allow myself treats, but I am consciously saving for holidays at the moment (and a very expensive exam) so am glad I could keep it sensible. It is evident that buying work snacks is where a lot of my money goes without me really noticing."
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Japanese beauty, or J-beauty as it's known among makeup and skincare obsessives, has quietly risen in popularity over the past years, especially in the Western world. Beloved for its quality ingredients, unique textures and Instagram-worthy packaging, not to mention its highly curated approach to skincare routines, Japanese beauty – much like Japan itself – is rooted in tradition. But it also benefits from the most forward-thinking science and technology.
When it comes to skincare, Japanese beauty has a 'prevention' rather than 'cure' attitude, which celebrates SPF (a must, even in the winter months) and gentle, nourishing formulations over harsh, skin-stripping products, which may cause reactions. "If anything, I’d say J-beauty turns away from trends and leans more towards efficacy and simplicity in skincare," explains Amanne Sharif, communications director at cult Japanese beauty brand DHC. "We all wanted the perfect 10-step regimen, but we’re fatigued. Now, the focus is on nourishing your skin – gently cleansing and layering on hydration and moisture."
While this may explain why J-beauty is so covetable in the West, Sharif reveals that it's also thanks to the avalanche of cult beauty products finally becoming widely accessible (and affordable) outside Japan. As a result, the demand for Japanese beauty shows no sign of slowing down, with new trends such as 'mochi-skin' (soft, smooth, bouncy skin, just like your favourite mochi dessert, according to Sharif) making waves in the industry.
Nothing cemented my own love for J-beauty more than a recent trip to Japan itself. The makeup, skincare and haircare options were overwhelming, and it was important to know which brands and products to seek out, due to the language barrier and sheer level of choice.
The selection was enough to delight a beauty addict. Everything was so new and exciting. The drugstore culture over there is huge, while stores such as Ainz & Tulpe serve as your Sephora or Cult Beauty alternative, offering affordable options and higher end brands alike.
Unsurprisingly, I showed little restraint, stocking up on everything from cult Japanese cleansers and steam eye masks to super soft cotton pads and featherweight SPF formulas. Luckily, although many of the products I bought are far cheaper and more easily accessible in Japan, they are available to purchase in the UK – if you know how and where to look.
Ahead, find seven of my favourite Japanese buys, which you can easily pick up without having to hop on a 12-hour flight. I'm a big fan of cream blush and can say that the cream-based formulas in Japan are unrivalled, even at high street stores. These little blushers cost about £4 in Japan and they are as good as some of the ultra high end cream counterparts I have tried in the UK. I bought four to bring home in the shade 07, which is a striking pink coral.
Canmake Cream Cheek, $, available at YesStyleOne of the better known J-beauty products available in the UK, DHC’s olive oil-based cleanser is sold once every 10 seconds in Japan and has already achieved bestseller status in the UK. Vitamin-packed, it emulsifies on contact with water, so removes all makeup with pure ease, and feels silky and nourishing on the skin. The pump is also super handy.
DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, $, available at FeelUniqueWe all know that hyaluronic acid is the queen of hydrating ingredients, but Japan really does do it best. Hada Labo offers its hyaluronic formula in a number of different textures but the lotion (which you use as a toner) packs the most punch in my opinion. It’s incredibly lightweight and creates the perfect base layer for applying serums, oils and creams afterwards.
Hada Labo Rohto Hadalabo Gokujun Hyaluronic Lotion Moist, $, available at AmazonJapan is famous for its incomparable selection of sheet masks and I was directed toward the brand Lululun. Their pink masks feature powerful moisturising ingredients including hyaluronic acid, acacia honey and rice ceramide. These lived up to the hype and are definitely worth stocking up on, especially if you have dry or dehydrated skin.
Lululun Face Mask, $, available at AmazonAt first, I wasn’t too sure what this actually was, and in the interest of transparency, I’m still not totally confident I know! But the way it should be used is as a hair refresher. If you don’t have time for a shower in the morning, a spritz or two of this will liven things right up. I’ve found it really works, making my hair softer, a little more voluminous and shinier when I have no time to give it any real attention. I have the 'moist' version, but YesStyle sells all three available, including 'smooth' and 'wave'.
Shiseido Ma Cherie Perfect Shower EX, $, available at YesStyleIf there’s one thing I’m constantly on the lookout for makeup-wise, it’s budge-proof liquid liner. As a cat-eye enthusiast, I struggle to keep things smudge-free all day long, and beauty shopping in Japan was the perfect opportunity to scout what was out there. This jet black liner by drugstore brand K-Palette is impressively long-wearing and easy to use. Even the most amateur liner fans will find fashioning a feline flick to be a total breeze. I can’t find the exact version I bought online, but this one from YesStyle looks pretty much the same.
K-Palette 1 Day Tattoo Real Lasting Eyeliner 24h Waterproof Micro, $, available at YesStyleI couldn’t visit Japan without picking up a sunscreen, and this Biore version comes heavily recommended online, largely due to its incredibly featherweight and silky texture. It offers ultra high level protection for the face and honestly feels like applying water. The practically undetectable formula is ideal for those who fear sticky, heavy sunscreen formulas that don’t sit well under makeup.
Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++, $, available at Amazon
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At just 17, Lila Moss is already a fully fledged model and magazine cover star times two. Most recently, she added to her impressive résumé and became the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty’s new Highliner Liquid-Gel Eyeliners, available exclusively at Harvey Nichols.
Ahead, Lila, talks treating breakouts, shares the smart beauty tip she’s learned from her mum Kate Moss, and divulges her super low-maintenance skincare routine.
What are your top picks from the new Marc Jacobs collection and how would you wear them?
The new Liquid Highliners are great. I love the mix of classic and fun metallic shades like Blacquer and Blitz Coin. These two are my favourites. On set, I learned from makeup artist Nikkie Tutorials about how to layer them to create a super cool cat eye effect.
When doing your own makeup, what look do you tend to go for, and what do you use?
At night, I like to add to my eyes with some eyeliner. In the Highliner collection, there is a great range of colours to choose from. If I am going bold on my eyes, I like to then balance that with a natural glossy lip, like the Enamored Hi Shine Lip Lacquer Lip Gloss in Sugar Sugar.
What’s the first beauty product you ever bought?
The first product I ever bought was a black kohl eyeliner. It was for my 11th birthday party and my friend and I went shopping together to get it.
Has your mum given you any smart beauty tips over the years?
The best advice my mum has given me when it comes to makeup is ‘less is more’, especially when it comes to foundation and bronzer.
Do you ever get nervous on shoots? If so, do you have any special rituals?
Luckily, I don’t tend to get nervous! The teams I have worked with have been fun and always make me feel at ease when on set.
Nan Goldin inspires me. She conveys such a sense of intimacy in her photography.
You really embrace your natural freckles on shoots – is that important to you?
I think it’s really important to show real skin, enhancing your natural features rather than make extreme changes.
You work with real beauty legends like Guido Palau and Diane Kendal. How do you ensure it’s always a collaboration between you and the professionals?
I completely put my trust in the hair and makeup teams. As a model, you’re a canvas and the experts really get to determine your look. This is fun as you get to try out different looks you might not try yourself.
What has been the best moment of your fashion career so far?
Travelling is so exciting. Getting to go to New York for these shoots has been great as I love the city and the energy there.
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We all know how it feels trudging through a working day after a bad night’s sleep, but a new study has shown that poor sleep negatively impacts women more than men, with eight out of 10 suffering from persistent sleep problems.
Even worse, the findings suggest that poor sleep is stopping women from achieving gender parity in the workplace.
The study, from Dreams and Loughborough University, is the first to cite a correlation between bad sleeping patterns and gender inequality in working environments, and suggests that a ‘sexist sleep stigma’ exists within UK businesses.
Nearly three quarters of women who took part in the study reported a “medium” sleep debt. This was compared to around half of men. Getting a bad night’s sleep negatively impacted the participant’s performance at work as well – especially for women. Poor sleep had a greater impact on women’s ability to do their work carefully (37% vs 21%), handle their workload (32% vs 21%), do their job well (23% vs 10%) and work quickly (27% vs 17%) when compared with men.
Well-rested female employees were found to be more productive and achieved more than men after a good night’s sleep (34% vs 26%). The research also showed that almost half of the women (44%) in the study approached the next day with a more positive mindset.
Commenting on the study’s findings, Dr Pixie McKenna said:“Sleep is fundamental to everyone’s good physical and mental health. But this research shows women are disproportionately impacted by persistent sleep problems and it is having a detrimental effect on their health, wellbeing and careers.”
Speaking about the results of the Sleep Better Study, participant Rebecca Davies, 32, from Llanelli, said: “The study made me realise the impact poor sleep was having on my working day and my career. Now I’m tracking my sleep and taking steps to improve it, I’ve found I’m more productive and more positive at work, I feel more satisfied in my job and have a lot more energy I can put towards reaching my career goals.”
Last year, Public Health England announced that companies should be doing more to help employees improve their sleep, putting the annual cost of sleep loss to employers at £30 billion annually in the UK alone. To help, they launched a Sleep and Recovery Toolkit aimed at employers. Appearing as part of a wider initiative to help organisations support the mental and physical health of their employees, the guide emphasises the role of managers when it comes to supporting staff who suffer from sleepless nights.
Aiming to be a practical resource for employers, the document offers information and advice on dealing with sleep loss among employees, including allowing staff flexitime, working from home and granting additional holiday time. The guide also highlights discussions around female-centric sleep issues such as pregnancy and the menopause, as well as sleep deprivation among first-time parents.
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If you, like me, awoke to find your Instagram feed ensconced in shadow, welcome to the new Instagram Dark Mode. Head of Instagram Adam Mosseri tweeted last night that the new display theme is now available on Instagram if you have iOS 13 or Android 10, and to use it, all you have to do is enable dark mode on your phone.
Dark mode is new to iOS 13, iPhone’s latest software, and I’m kind of obsessed with it. It’s much easier on my eyes than its white background predecessor, and it just makes my phone look sleeker. To enable it on your iPhone (if you’ve updated to iOS 13), go to Settings > Display & Brightness and select Dark instead of Light in the Appearance menu. Once you turn this on, your Instagram feed will automatically take on a black background instead of a white one.
And to get dark mode on Android (if you have Android 10), go to Settings > Display > Advanced and then choose Dark in the device theme menu. It’s worth noting, though, that you can’t use dark mode on your iPhone or Android and then opt out of dark mode on Instagram — it’s a package deal. So if you don’t like the way dark mode looks on Instagram, you’ll have to do without it on the rest of your phone.
Instagram joins several other apps on the dark mode train — including Twitter, Facebook Messenger, and YouTube. And IG dark mode’s reception on Twitter has been pretty positive — with tons of users commenting on its sleek look. That is, except for those of us with white borders on their grid photos. Those people might have some editing to do.
portrait of young beautiful woman with white hair, in a black coat, a skirt and a black hat, smoking an electronic cigarette, blowing the smoke vapor
The first study definitively linking vaping to cancer was published yesterday. Researchers at New York University found a link between e-cigarette nicotine vapour and lung and bladder cancer in mice.
During the study, which was funded by the National Institutes of Health and published in Proceedings of National Academy of Sciences (PNAS), researchers exposed 40 mice to e-cigarette smoke with nicotine over the course of 54 weeks, and 20 mice to e-cigarette smoke without nicotine over the course of four years. Nine of the 40 mice (or 22.5%) exposed to nicotine developed lung adenocarcinomas, and 23 (or 57.5%) developed pre-cancerous lesions on their bladders. None of the mice exposed to e-cig smoke without nicotine developed cancer.
“It’s foreseeable that if you smoke e-cigarettes, all kinds of disease comes out,” the study’s lead researcher, Moon-Shong Tang, PhD, of NYU School of Medicine, told CNBC. “Long term, some cancer will come out, probably. E-cigarettes are bad news.”
The Vapour Technology Association disputed the findings of the new study, pointing to a 2015 study that found that e-cigarettes were 95% less harmful than cigarettes.
Dr. Tang admitted that there are limitations to the study — the mice were exposed to smoke outside their bodies instead of inhaling it like humans would, for example — and the results in mice can’t be directly compared to the results in humans. However, while he acknowledged that more research is needed, he said that the results are “statistically very significant” and indicate that it’s unlikely that e-cigarettes are safe for humans.
It’ll take at least 10 more years before we fully understand the effects of vaping, Dr. Tang added to Gizmodo. “It takes two decades or more for a life-time smoker to develop lung cancer,” he said. “If tobacco smoke-induced lung carcinogenesis is a paradigm for e-cig carcinogenicity, then it will take at least another decade to have e-cig-related human lung cancer to show up.”
Next, the researchers plan to expand the study by including more mice, varying the exposure times, and investigating the genetic changes caused by e-cigarette smoke.
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